E is one of the most creative and sought after perfumers in the world His perfumes are pieces of art In this book he lets us into is everyday life, and the way he sees the world.
Jean Claude Fran a, 1947 um perfumista muito, mas muito famoso mas n o um pop star Trabalha h quase uma d cada para a mesma casa, a Herm s, que n o l uma marca faiscante comparativamente a outras que det m linhas de perfumes pr prias, como Carolina Herrera, Calvin Klein, Diesel ou mesmo a Chanel Filho de perfumista, nascido em Grasse, j trabalhou pra grandes casas de fragr ncias, como Givaudan e Symrise, criando perfumes para Bvlgari, Balenciaga, Giorgio Armani, L Artisan Parfumeur, Van Cleef Arpels e Yves Saint Laurent Mas seus maiores sucessos vieram mesmo a partir de 2004 05 quando criou a s rie Hermessence e Un Jardin para a Herm s.
De l pra c j publicou quatro livros, colaborou em outros dois, sendo este, Di rio de um Perfumista 2009 11 , o primeiro traduzido no Brasil que seu nariz muito liter rio O mais apaixonante em Ellena seu amor pela literatura Acostumados que estamos, desde Septimus Piesse, a encarar a perfumaria como uma composi o musical, vem ele e abre o livro com a ep grafe O odor uma palavra, o perfume a literatura Pronto, voc precisa de mais nada pra ler o livro Mas se quiser outros argumentos, ei los, do mais bvio ao menos se voc brinca de perfumaria, vai amar algumas f rmulas que ele menciona no final do livro se voc aromaterapeuta, vai gostar de saber sobre algumas poucas ess ncias naturais usadas na perfumaria na Fran a se voc tamb m acha a Anvisa um porre, vai encontrar pelo menos duas boas e fundamentadas opini es de por que ela e o IFRA s o uns chatos de galocha se voc queria ter nascido na Fran a, vai ficar com mais vontade ainda Jean Claude tem tudo que um franc s deve ter senso politico, consci ncia da fugacidade da fama, propens o a filosofar em cima do banal e amor pelo sofisticado simples se voc gosta de literatura, vai achar incr vel as reflex es que ele faz em cima de seu of cio, o de um escritor de s mbolos fragrantes.
Depois da leitura, s lhe restar uma atitude sensata a tomar ir at uma boa perfumaria e cheirar as cria es de Ellena Leve mais bra os mesmo que borrife nos pulsos, nas dobras internas dos cotovelos e nos b ceps, faltar espa o pra cheirar tanta beleza.
Voici les meilleures parties.
Leia o restante da resenha com as cita es em In which Jean Claude Ellena sets out to prove he is a true Frenchman, i.
e an intellectual and an aesthete, crafting works of art rather than the icy perfections of the mere stylist As Mr Charles Rennie Mackintosh would say He quotes Fernand Braudel on capitalism p.
45 and Charles Trenet on music p.
67 and travels the globe and namedrops and drinks tea.
He is PoMo and BoBo all at once When I want to evoke a smell, I use signs that taken separately have no connection with the thing I m expressing there has never been any tea in Bulgari s Eau parfum e au th vert, mango in Un jardin sur le Nil by Herm s, or flint in Terre d Herm s, yet the public feels they are there p.
3 Comparing himself to a sculptor, winemaker, or other craftsman, he says Where the master of wine is concerned, man adds to nature as a perfumer, I remove myself from nature to reduce it to the level of signs 68 This clustering of signs around and about perfume is partly because we can t evaluate or sense a perfume without smelling it interacting with the thing itself so we need representations in words, images, symbols Ellena remarks, seemingly without irony, marketing people understand this perfectly Seeing advertisements has never meant being able to smell the perfume at the very best it elicits a desire to smell it such are the strengths and limitations of the exercise 24 Actually one could say this about all luxury goods They are about desire and possession, and representations of desire and possession One of Ellena s own perfumes, First, sort of represents all that in scent symbol form Gorged on analyses of market archetypes, I collected, borrowed and conflated every signal for femininity, wealth and power into this perfume 66 The best thing I got from this book, however, was an idea for an experience akin to the Feast of Words nights at SOMArts an event in which the master of ceremonies burned ten different fragrances, one after another For each fragrance, the participants were invited to compose a poem 127 Now, who will humor me and actually do this The way in which we read and perceive a book is not exactly the same today as it was yesterday, and the same can be said of perfume A fascinating if occasionally overly pretentious read As it is a diary, it can be choppy and is best read in several sittings.
I recently became engaged with texts on perfume, after finding The Emperor of Scent by Chandler Burr, at a trains station that had wild hyacinths blooming in the parking lot I searched out like minded books on scent, intrigued at how little I d considered this sense of mine, and was hoping to get a deeper understanding of scent from this book.
This book is, simply, a journal by a composer of perfumes Jean Claude is certainly an intriguing figure, but he seems so engrossed in his own scent wanderings, that it s hard to bridge the gap if you re also not a super smeller He s not known as a writer although it s clear from his thoughts, he s an artist But as a non writer, there is little sense or true cohesion or finality to this book It does, indeed, read like a perfume would it wafts past enticing scents of fashion, culture, food and greatness, without settling specifically on a thought It lingers, but only slightly so I think perfume obsessives will love this, but the man does not extend his thoughts to those who do not understand it He simply invites you into his mind wanderings, which are at times interesting, but collectively, nothing to write home about A simple, easy book that may intrigue you further down the rabbit hole of scent, but has no true lasting effect on me otherwise.
Pleasant enough for what it is, although pretty insubstantial This is a short series of diary entries from a perfumier who works for Hermes, in which he talks about various influences quotidian and developmental over his work He gives an interesting account of the development of discernment over a lifetime I think this will be very interesting to anyone working in an artistic field other than perfume, as he presents essentially what was to me an account of taste in a field whose very difference defamiliarized familiar accounts of how one reads an artwork Still, pretty nugatory for the most part, although a quick and satisfying read.
Good A bit philosophical than I expected There s formulas at the end of the book, for those who are interested Picked this up, mostly, because I am fascinated by the Herm s Un Jardin series I own all of them An interesting look at the life of a parfumeur I guess, in that regard, the book does exactly as the title implies Still tho, feels like there is something missing Not sure what yet tho I guess, maybe, I wanted to know about the actual process and thinking behind each fragrance and there s a bit of that But then, also, there s a ton of meetings with people, traveling to different countries and towns and just, musings about daily life Ellena is French after all Not bad Not great Just, good.
Jean Claude is a professional perfumer, but he is almost as much a poet He writes beautifully about creativity, craftsmanship, curiosity, and of course topics related to perfumery like the nature synthetic debate, quality and market trends This book reads like a diary, each entry a snippet into his though process Fans of Hermes or of perfumery as an art will appreciate this.
This is a short book, written in a diary format, which supposedly follows Ellena over the course of a year In fact, it felt like a series of very short essays or newspaper columns, as most entries focused on a particular idea or theme rather than a conventional description of the day s events The entries were a little too short for my liking, and I would have enjoyed development of some of these ideas The book seems aimed at readers who have much than a passing interest in the subject of perfume, as there are some chemical formulae as well as a lengthy appendix explaining how to create various scents using different chemicals and essences If somebody were considering a career in perfumery I would recommend this book wholeheartedly, and even with no knowledge of the subject at all I still found myself intrigued at how chemicals that have never been anywhere near a fruit can be mixed together to smell like a pear or strawberry.
I spent much of the book trying to get a handle on Ellena s personality from the way he writes He s quite scant on personal information and his writing is completely humourless There s not the merest vestige of a joke or lightness of tone to be found anywhere, and I m afraid I built up a rather unflattering picture of a haughty Frenchman who strikes fear into the hearts of his quaking assistants I know this is meant to be a serious work, but I would have liked to have seen a little chink of humanity.
I did find myself wandering over to my dressing table and sniffing my own collection of perfumes while reading this trying to pay attention to all the different elements and seeing if I could detect a particular flower, herb or fruit The book will get you thinking about fragrance and what it means to us, how it is linked to memory and how it can provoke an emotional reaction.
While perfume junkies will certainly enjoy The Diary of a Nose, the deadly serious tone and lack of depth and detail will limit its appeal I think I would have enjoyed a conventional autobiography , but I m not sure Ellena would have been up to the task As a perfumer I m sure he s a genius, but as an author he s a little too dry for my taste.
The French Bestseller The Diary Of A Nose Is The Story Behind The Creation Of A Perfume, From The Head Perfumer At Herm SPerfume Creation Is An Exclusive And Secretive Endeavour What Is Day To Day Life Like For A Perfume Maker How Does The Creation Of A New Scent Begin How Do You Capture The Essence Of A Smell On The Skin For One Year, Jean Claude Ellena Kept A Diary Of His Life As Parfumeur Exclusif Le Nez Or The Nose For Herm S Believing That Creating A Scent Is Like Creating A Work Of Art, And Describing Himself As A Writer Using Olfactory Colours , He Explains How All Of The Five Senses Come Into Play When Creating A Perfume He Also Reveals How Inspiration Can Come From A Market Stall, A Landscape, Or Even The Movement Of Calligraphy, And Concludes This Charming, Perceptive Diary With Recipes For Natural Fragrances, Each Made Up Of Three Synthetic Ingredients, To Create The Illusion Of Smells Like Freesia, Orange Blossom, Grapefruit, Pear, Chocolate, Cashew And Cotton CandyThis Is The Story Of A Quest To Capture What Is Most Elusive Jean Claude Ellena Offer Readers A Rare Insight Into The Secrets Of His Business, His Art, And His Life As One Of The World S Most Important And Admired Perfumers